[QUOTE=PSI-KILLER;169594][url]http://educations.newegg.com/tool/psucalc/index.html[/url][/QUOTE]What a pile of shit! :angryv:
Makers of that wouldn't eknow the difference between AC and DC even if they grapped from live and neutral of 230V.
This is only calculator which gives consistently realistic results:
[url]http://web.aanet.com.au/SnooP/psucalc.php[/url]
Here's some real consumption numbers
[url]http://forums.anandtech.com/messageview.aspx?catid=84&threadid=2097209[/url] (remember to deduct 15% from measured value)
[QUOTE=PSI-KILLER;169551]Look at this guys review. And look at the others he done.
[url]http://www.3dgameman.com/content/view/11645/103/[/url][/QUOTE]I wouldn't give a shit what he does.
That PSU has weakish 12V (+ full output is impossible to achieve), badly restricting fan grill, EMI leaking plastic window and advertising is misleading/deceiving. Now did I miss anything...
[url]http://www.ultraproducts.com/product_details.php?cPath=61&pPath=666&productID=666[/url]
While it might be cheap that's about everything what can be said from Phenom:
[url]http://techreport.com/articles.x/13633/1[/url]
[url]http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/cpu/display/amd-phenom_10.html[/url]
[QUOTE=Sanfam;169607]Also, I'm going to toss up my current plans for the new system...
Antec Earthwatts 500[/QUOTE]Seasonic's low end model (so "just" on par with good PSUs), Corsair VX450 would be Seasonic's high quality model and quieter...
But otherwise good pick also because all Seasonics are UL Level 6 designs.
[quote]HD: WD Raptor, 150gb. (My games, however, are very HD heavy. )[/quote]Possibly waste of money:
[url]http://blogs.zdnet.com/Ou/?p=322[/url]
[QUOTE=JohnnyOnTheSpot;169700]well last night i finished but now she won't turn on. I think i covered all the bases wonder what I'm doing wrong?[/QUOTE]Nothing shorting motherboard? (stands in wrong places)
Does PSU work? (short green wire to ground)
How about with mimimum parts or outside chassis?
E.T., ended up ordering a Seasonic S12 500W due to a critical flaw in the Earthwatts and TruePower Trio lineup: The mobo power cables are too short for my case! It was a tiny bit more than I had hoped to pay, but I know it's a better long-term option
Also, regarding the WD Raptors, side-by-side, Supcom on the Raptor on an identical system *is* notably smoother. In most cases, I would agree with you, but it is the [B]single[/B] example where the Raptor stands out as offering a genuine performance benefit. I also intend to take up a bit more regular video editing again, so It will most certainly help reduce delay due to processing/rendering segments of video. These two reasons are the selling points, but the real question is if I can actually [B]afford[/B] it. the HD is going to be the last item I purchase, as it is the single most flexible component.
So far, P182, SeaSonic S12-500W, 2gb DDR2-800 GeiL 4-4-4-12 memory, and a Scythe Ninja. not a very complete system, but it's getting there.
Only ~400W available from 12V in that (not as 12V strong as designs of M12/S12E+/Corsair HX) but you can still draw it from any connector you want and quality is higher than in PSUs made for Antec.
IIRC Corsair HX520 would have had long enough cable.
Video editing needs raw transfer rate because transferred data amounts are very big. Also in video editing having own source and target drives helps much more than single drive with highest IOps or STR.
(two drives with half STR of one drive would be well faster than that one drive because there wouldn't be need for seeks)
Okay this is what happens everything is plugged in but a little light on the mobo turns on when i turn her on. No beeps or anything, no fans going, and i've systematically taken everything off one at a time. What could be the problem?
[QUOTE=E.T;169709]Only ~400W available from 12V in that (not as 12V strong as designs of M12/S12E+/Corsair HX) but you can still draw it from any connector you want and quality is higher than in PSUs made for Antec.
IIRC Corsair HX520 would have had long enough cable.
Video editing needs raw transfer rate because transferred data amounts are very big. Also in video editing having own source and target drives helps much more than single drive with highest IOps or STR.
(two drives with half STR of one drive would be well faster than that one drive because there wouldn't be need for seeks)[/QUOTE]
The Corsair HX520 was my alternative, but I was able to get the S12II/500W for something close to $30 less. I was stuck debating between getting the SeaSonic 500ES/Earthwatts 500 (preference toward SeaSonic), but per Biggles' input, it was deemed the lesser option (Airflow from the PSU being the primary cooling agent for the HDD, and a smaller, somewhat more noisy fan). All things considered, I doubt I'll have anything to be ashamed of with this particular choice, but I am pining for modular cables right about now ;) From the looks of it, I'll be fine with the current configuration.
Re: Video editing: Two drives is the long-term plan, but that is going to have to wait until I can afford such things. Right now, I am already going to be slightly over budget for my intended configuration, but the changes are all for the better so it doesn't particularly bother me. What does, however, is having enough to finish the purchase process ;)
My biggest concern right now is motherboard. I was all lined up to purchase a GA-P35-DS4, and WHAM! Price change upon purchase and cancellation of order. It's a fate-designed kick to the face and I believe a nudge toward the recently discounted P35-DS3P. ;) I'm also pleased to find that the non-reference Asus 8800GT is the recent victim of a MIR, making it slightly more attractive to me.
[QUOTE=JohnnyOnTheSpot;169710]Okay this is what happens everything is plugged in but a little light on the mobo turns on when i turn her on. No beeps or anything, no fans going, and i've systematically taken everything off one at a time. What could be the problem?[/QUOTE]
You've removed the motherboard, and as ET suggested above, checked that the there are no studs shorting out, correct? You could ensure that the PSU is in good working order by testing on another system. Just keep on reducing system components where at all possible. Remove the CPU, inspect both the socket and the processor for any form of damage or debris. Read through the Motherboard's manual for the most likely candidates of a no-beep scenario following a barebones reassembly. (CPU, Motherboard, RAM, Video, and that's it. No HDD, nothing else)
Congrats, you are going to take your first step onto the grand path that is system troubleshooting. ;)
That still doesn't answer whether or not the light is a *good* thing or not. We need more details.
And I assume you're somehow not overlooking the obvious in forgetting to (or improperly?) hooking up the front-mounted power switch to the motherboard's headers and instead mistaking power for the PSU-located on/off switch (or are improperly hooking up reset/power).
If your friend has an older S775 CPU then you could check if it works on your mobo. If it does, the problem is most likely caused by obsolete BIOS version (and with another processor you can flash a new one).
Johnny: From what I understand when I downloaded your motherboard's manual the little light on it is to indicate standby power is on. So it is a good thing it's glowing, only bad thing is your computer not doing anything else.
[QUOTE=JohnnyOnTheSpot;169716]nope i took off all the jumpers as well and the light still comes on. grrr[/QUOTE]While adding jumpers to every possible place is sure way for letting "magic smoke" out doing reverse won't make PC work.
Could you list components you have? That makes searching for possible compatibility problems much easier.
And try starting PSU without anything connected.
Also did you remember ESD-precautions during assembly?
[QUOTE=Sanfam;169713]All things considered, I doubt I'll have anything to be ashamed of with this particular choice, but I am pining for modular cables right about now ;) From the looks of it, I'll be fine with the current configuration.[/QUOTE]Strongest 12V output would be needed only when adding graphic cards/CPUs and overclocking them. Peripherals load rails more evenly and PSU probably wouldn't mind at all even "kickstarting" dozen HDs.
[quote]I was all lined up to purchase a GA-P35-DS4, and WHAM! Price change upon purchase and cancellation of order. It's a fate-designed kick to the face[/quote][i]"Why is it, every time you finally get things calmed down and everything is going great, life decides to kick you in the butt."[/i]
[QUOTE=E.T;169705]What a pile of shit! :angryv:
Makers of that wouldn't eknow the difference between AC and DC even if they grapped from live and neutral of 230V.
This is only calculator which gives consistently realistic results:
[url]http://web.aanet.com.au/SnooP/psucalc.php[/url]
I tried the web site, it gave me a 386 watt use, I know that has to be wrong no way would I get stability out of a 385 watt power supply even a top brand
Here's some real consumption numbers
[url]http://forums.anandtech.com/messageview.aspx?catid=84&threadid=2097209[/url] (remember to deduct 15% from measured value)
TOUCHE!!!!!!!
I wouldn't give a shit what he does.
That PSU has weakish 12V (+ full output is impossible to achieve), badly restricting fan grill, EMI leaking plastic window and advertising is misleading/deceiving. Now did I miss anything...
[url]http://www.ultraproducts.com/product_details.php?cPath=61&pPath=666&productID=666[/url]
He has been faily unbiased the times I have seen his reviews. With EMI leakage and stuff I have not heard iof failures due to this fact but possable i guess.
While it might be cheap that's about everything what can be said from Phenom:
[url]http://techreport.com/articles.x/13633/1[/url]
[url]http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/cpu/display/amd-phenom_10.html[/url]
Phenoms are not good compaired to Intel now.
.
Possibly waste of money:
[url]http://blogs.zdnet.com/Ou/?p=322[/url][/QUOTE]
I like my Raptor It is very good for a boot drive. I would highly reccommed it.
[QUOTE=E.T;169722]Strongest 12V output would be needed only when adding graphic cards/CPUs and overclocking them. Peripherals load rails more evenly and PSU probably wouldn't mind at all even "kickstarting" dozen HDs.
[i]"Why is it, every time you finally get things calmed down and everything is going great, life decides to kick you in the butt."[/i][/QUOTE]
The upside was that I found a GA-EP35-DS3P for $129 shipped. ;) So that's a pretty nice swing in my favor and pretty much evens out the heatsink and PSU purchases. :p It's not quite a DS4, but I'll have enough in-case airflow to make satisfactory use of the cooling solution without having to spend some absurd amount of cash on it.
And as far as the PSU goes, I'll be fine with things. I've ruled out SLI and I'll probably ever only run one high-RPM drive on the system.
HUZZAH! Well I got her working after messing with the jumpers a bit. But my internets still isn't quite functioning so I'm on the other machine till I can get that working. Otherwise runs Battlefield 2 just fine.
Wait. Internet isn't working, but BF2 runs fine? BF2 requires authentication with a central server to play.
I think this also needs clarification. What is "Messing with the jumpers a bit?" What was done, what was modified? Which jumpers and for what purpose? Was it anywhere near as [I]arbitrary[/I] as it sounds?
Biggles<font color=#AAFFAA>The Man Without a Face</font>
Just out of curiosity, could you take a photo of those jumpers for us?
Messing with the jumpers means following the manual correctly I had the power switch and reset switch in on the wrong place on the mobo after realizing their position I swapped them. I've been playing BTF 2 in Single Player mode not multiplayer mode. The onboard ethernet seems to be able to send but not receive data or at least very little portions of data. Thus I get the limited or no connection warning on the bottom right. Note: Im also using service pack 3 here so that may have something to do with it.
Thanks for the clarification. At least two of us here were somewhat confused as to the true meaning, having seen the repercussions of people genuinely "Messing with the jumpers." :p
By the way, what motherboard is the new system running?
The new system is running a MSI k9A2 Platinum. Even after downloading the drivers and installing them via burned cd I still can't seem to get the sound working. It seems theres an error while attempting to install the sound drivers but I'll get to that after I get my internet up. I may have to wait till monday, might just bring into work.
Biggles<font color=#AAFFAA>The Man Without a Face</font>
For future reference, those are typically known as "connectors" or "headers," not jumpers. Jumpers are something very, very different, despite looking the same. Correct terminology means people can help much more quickly. :)
If it's onboard sound make sure it's enabled in the bios. Also, with the no internet connection it's kind of hard to help when we got no idea what kind of router and type of connection you got (like does it use dhcp or are you suppoused to insert your own IP). The computer will allways send out data if there's some kind of connection, why you're not recieveing any may just be that there's something blocking it(like software firewall or similar).
[QUOTE=JohnnyOnTheSpot;169791]bingo firewall, I am now successfully on the net with the quadcore.[/QUOTE]Just remember that you can't let Windows PC to internet without firewall between them. Hardware firewall/router is always preferable starting point with software as other defense layer.
(general rule: all connection attempts from WAN side must be blocked)
I turned the firewall back and everything seems to be running fine now. Except the onboard sound, so frustrating. However @ Cmon you gave me an idea and it half worked. I disabled the sound on the bios and installed the drivers and it successfully installed the drivers. However when enabled it still does not work. Hmmm...Might have to get a sound card too.
Comments
Makers of that wouldn't eknow the difference between AC and DC even if they grapped from live and neutral of 230V.
This is only calculator which gives consistently realistic results:
[url]http://web.aanet.com.au/SnooP/psucalc.php[/url]
Here's some real consumption numbers
[url]http://forums.anandtech.com/messageview.aspx?catid=84&threadid=2097209[/url] (remember to deduct 15% from measured value)
[QUOTE=PSI-KILLER;169551]Look at this guys review. And look at the others he done.
[url]http://www.3dgameman.com/content/view/11645/103/[/url][/QUOTE]I wouldn't give a shit what he does.
That PSU has weakish 12V (+ full output is impossible to achieve), badly restricting fan grill, EMI leaking plastic window and advertising is misleading/deceiving. Now did I miss anything...
[url]http://www.ultraproducts.com/product_details.php?cPath=61&pPath=666&productID=666[/url]
While it might be cheap that's about everything what can be said from Phenom:
[url]http://techreport.com/articles.x/13633/1[/url]
[url]http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/cpu/display/amd-phenom_10.html[/url]
[QUOTE=Sanfam;169607]Also, I'm going to toss up my current plans for the new system...
Antec Earthwatts 500[/QUOTE]Seasonic's low end model (so "just" on par with good PSUs), Corsair VX450 would be Seasonic's high quality model and quieter...
But otherwise good pick also because all Seasonics are UL Level 6 designs.
[quote]HD: WD Raptor, 150gb. (My games, however, are very HD heavy. )[/quote]Possibly waste of money:
[url]http://blogs.zdnet.com/Ou/?p=322[/url]
Does PSU work? (short green wire to ground)
How about with mimimum parts or outside chassis?
Also, regarding the WD Raptors, side-by-side, Supcom on the Raptor on an identical system *is* notably smoother. In most cases, I would agree with you, but it is the [B]single[/B] example where the Raptor stands out as offering a genuine performance benefit. I also intend to take up a bit more regular video editing again, so It will most certainly help reduce delay due to processing/rendering segments of video. These two reasons are the selling points, but the real question is if I can actually [B]afford[/B] it. the HD is going to be the last item I purchase, as it is the single most flexible component.
So far, P182, SeaSonic S12-500W, 2gb DDR2-800 GeiL 4-4-4-12 memory, and a Scythe Ninja. not a very complete system, but it's getting there.
IIRC Corsair HX520 would have had long enough cable.
Video editing needs raw transfer rate because transferred data amounts are very big. Also in video editing having own source and target drives helps much more than single drive with highest IOps or STR.
(two drives with half STR of one drive would be well faster than that one drive because there wouldn't be need for seeks)
IIRC Corsair HX520 would have had long enough cable.
Video editing needs raw transfer rate because transferred data amounts are very big. Also in video editing having own source and target drives helps much more than single drive with highest IOps or STR.
(two drives with half STR of one drive would be well faster than that one drive because there wouldn't be need for seeks)[/QUOTE]
The Corsair HX520 was my alternative, but I was able to get the S12II/500W for something close to $30 less. I was stuck debating between getting the SeaSonic 500ES/Earthwatts 500 (preference toward SeaSonic), but per Biggles' input, it was deemed the lesser option (Airflow from the PSU being the primary cooling agent for the HDD, and a smaller, somewhat more noisy fan). All things considered, I doubt I'll have anything to be ashamed of with this particular choice, but I am pining for modular cables right about now ;) From the looks of it, I'll be fine with the current configuration.
Re: Video editing: Two drives is the long-term plan, but that is going to have to wait until I can afford such things. Right now, I am already going to be slightly over budget for my intended configuration, but the changes are all for the better so it doesn't particularly bother me. What does, however, is having enough to finish the purchase process ;)
My biggest concern right now is motherboard. I was all lined up to purchase a GA-P35-DS4, and WHAM! Price change upon purchase and cancellation of order. It's a fate-designed kick to the face and I believe a nudge toward the recently discounted P35-DS3P. ;) I'm also pleased to find that the non-reference Asus 8800GT is the recent victim of a MIR, making it slightly more attractive to me.
[QUOTE=JohnnyOnTheSpot;169710]Okay this is what happens everything is plugged in but a little light on the mobo turns on when i turn her on. No beeps or anything, no fans going, and i've systematically taken everything off one at a time. What could be the problem?[/QUOTE]
You've removed the motherboard, and as ET suggested above, checked that the there are no studs shorting out, correct? You could ensure that the PSU is in good working order by testing on another system. Just keep on reducing system components where at all possible. Remove the CPU, inspect both the socket and the processor for any form of damage or debris. Read through the Motherboard's manual for the most likely candidates of a no-beep scenario following a barebones reassembly. (CPU, Motherboard, RAM, Video, and that's it. No HDD, nothing else)
Congrats, you are going to take your first step onto the grand path that is system troubleshooting. ;)
And I assume you're somehow not overlooking the obvious in forgetting to (or improperly?) hooking up the front-mounted power switch to the motherboard's headers and instead mistaking power for the PSU-located on/off switch (or are improperly hooking up reset/power).
I'm gonna wait for one of my Geeksquad friends to come by and check her out. Me thinks the board might be defective.
Could you list components you have? That makes searching for possible compatibility problems much easier.
And try starting PSU without anything connected.
Also did you remember ESD-precautions during assembly?
[QUOTE=Sanfam;169713]All things considered, I doubt I'll have anything to be ashamed of with this particular choice, but I am pining for modular cables right about now ;) From the looks of it, I'll be fine with the current configuration.[/QUOTE]Strongest 12V output would be needed only when adding graphic cards/CPUs and overclocking them. Peripherals load rails more evenly and PSU probably wouldn't mind at all even "kickstarting" dozen HDs.
[quote]I was all lined up to purchase a GA-P35-DS4, and WHAM! Price change upon purchase and cancellation of order. It's a fate-designed kick to the face[/quote][i]"Why is it, every time you finally get things calmed down and everything is going great, life decides to kick you in the butt."[/i]
Makers of that wouldn't eknow the difference between AC and DC even if they grapped from live and neutral of 230V.
This is only calculator which gives consistently realistic results:
[url]http://web.aanet.com.au/SnooP/psucalc.php[/url]
I tried the web site, it gave me a 386 watt use, I know that has to be wrong no way would I get stability out of a 385 watt power supply even a top brand
Here's some real consumption numbers
[url]http://forums.anandtech.com/messageview.aspx?catid=84&threadid=2097209[/url] (remember to deduct 15% from measured value)
TOUCHE!!!!!!!
I wouldn't give a shit what he does.
That PSU has weakish 12V (+ full output is impossible to achieve), badly restricting fan grill, EMI leaking plastic window and advertising is misleading/deceiving. Now did I miss anything...
[url]http://www.ultraproducts.com/product_details.php?cPath=61&pPath=666&productID=666[/url]
He has been faily unbiased the times I have seen his reviews. With EMI leakage and stuff I have not heard iof failures due to this fact but possable i guess.
While it might be cheap that's about everything what can be said from Phenom:
[url]http://techreport.com/articles.x/13633/1[/url]
[url]http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/cpu/display/amd-phenom_10.html[/url]
Phenoms are not good compaired to Intel now.
.
Possibly waste of money:
[url]http://blogs.zdnet.com/Ou/?p=322[/url][/QUOTE]
I like my Raptor It is very good for a boot drive. I would highly reccommed it.
[i]"Why is it, every time you finally get things calmed down and everything is going great, life decides to kick you in the butt."[/i][/QUOTE]
The upside was that I found a GA-EP35-DS3P for $129 shipped. ;) So that's a pretty nice swing in my favor and pretty much evens out the heatsink and PSU purchases. :p It's not quite a DS4, but I'll have enough in-case airflow to make satisfactory use of the cooling solution without having to spend some absurd amount of cash on it.
And as far as the PSU goes, I'll be fine with things. I've ruled out SLI and I'll probably ever only run one high-RPM drive on the system.
I think this also needs clarification. What is "Messing with the jumpers a bit?" What was done, what was modified? Which jumpers and for what purpose? Was it anywhere near as [I]arbitrary[/I] as it sounds?
By the way, what motherboard is the new system running?
(general rule: all connection attempts from WAN side must be blocked)