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How not to remove a wheel nut
Falcon1
Elite Ranger
in Zocalo v2.0
Darwin award worthy for sure...
[url]http://www.theregister.co.uk/2007/11/13/shotgun_mechanic/[/url]
[url]http://www.theregister.co.uk/2007/11/13/shotgun_mechanic/[/url]
Comments
Jake
Just interested because I've been many times twisting 10mm bolts (with rusted nut) to half because there wasn't time to wait hours for lubrificants to loosen them and nut didn't open voluntarily...
Never measured angle but IIRC they bend about 50-90 degrees and give some weird red-brown (maybe near rust colour) smoke before they finally break. Also after that they're about burning hot to touch. :D
:p
ET: I did that a year or so ago! Wasn't very happy about the replacement part :p A little too much twisting of the exhaust manifold stud...and then everything felt real easy. And then I had two studs.
I also broke a wheel stud once with a breaker bar. I guess it worked. :p
ET: I did that a year or so ago! Wasn't very happy about the replacement part :p A little too much twisting of the exhaust manifold stud...and then everything felt real easy. And then I had two studs.[/QUOTE]
Oh, I know that feeling, and it is a gut wrenching one too...especially when said fastner is deep in the engine bay.
Jake
I'm actually a bit proud of my solution. I had about 3mm of extension beyond the head to grasp, so I ended up using JB Weld to fuse another nut to the remaining threads and a ton of PB Blaster over a day and a half, followed by a breaker bar. It came out.
Jake
I also broke a wheel stud once with a breaker bar. I guess it worked. :p[/QUOTE]
I'm more of a fan of the "if it doesn't budge you just need a bigger hammer" method.
Along with steel pipe for giving longer lever?
Also oxy-acetylene torch is good for getting jammed parts separate... as long as they aren't combustible and tolerate heating required for use of thermal expansion.
Working on transverse engines makes me wish more cars were RWD. :p